Question and Answer Series on Barefoot Hoofcare; Part 3

Our new blog series is taking a look at barefoot hoof care with a variety of Questions and Answers from our customers. The questions will be answered directly by our very own barefoot hoof care expert The Saddlery Shop’s proprietor Lucy Nicholas! Question 3: How long will hoof boots last? – I’m trying to budget for going barefoot in the near future. The largest manufacturer of hoof boots, Easycare Inc, states their boots outlast steel shoes 3:1 on average, so if your horse wears through his metal shoes in six weeks, you could expect boots to last 18 weeks. However, boots are generally not used all the time or for every ride, so will in most cases last longer than this. The boots of the average horse hacking for an hour a day, five days a week, will last 6-18 months; this is dependent on terrain (roads being more abrasive than tracks, in general). Incorrectly sized boots will show unnaturally fast wear – for example if the breakover is too long for the hoof, this can make a horse catch the boot and wear the toe more than expected, highlighting the importance of a correctly fitting boot. I have heard of boots lasting three to four years when they were not used all of the time! Just like with metal shoes, the horse’s action plays a part in boot wear. A horse with a twist to their action or that drags their toe can wear them prematurely. A wide range of Hoof Boots and Hoof Boot accessories are available from The Saddlery Shop.

Question and Answer Series on Barefoot Hoofcare; Part 2

Our new blog series is taking a look at barefoot hoof care with a variety of Questions and Answers from our customers. The questions will be answered directly by our very own barefoot hoof care expert The Saddlery Shop’s proprietor Lucy Nicholas! Question 2: A friend keeps her horse barefoot and says that hooves need to be trimmed differently if you keep your horse without shoes. Is this true? Yes; the type of trim given to prepare the hoof for a shoe is completely different to a functional trim given to a working horse. There are two types of trim commonly performed on non-shod horses. Essentially, a pasture trim tidies the hooves of a non-working horse at grass, and is sufficient for companion or retired horses. Meanwhile, a natural (or performance) trim aims to produce hard-working hooves for ridden horses. The type of trim your horse receives depends entirely on your choice of practitioner and their understanding of your needs. A pasture trim generally just removes excess length and tidies chips, and does not shape the hoof in what is termed a ‘mustang roll’. This rounds the edge of the hoof to strengthen the hoof capsule and help the hoof withstand chipping. The natural (or performance) trim ensures the foot is properly balanced, addresses flare, trims the hoof wall trimmed to hard sole level, and applies the mustang roll. Barefoot practitioners should also discuss diet and environment at each visit. Seek recommendation, whether via friends or on equine forums, to find a recomended hoofcare practitioner. Simply removing the shoes and tidying the hoof will not produce a functional bare foot. A wide range of Hoof Boots and Hoof Boot accessories are available from The Saddlery Shop.

Question and Answer Series on Barefoot Hoofcare; Part 1

I’ve been thinking of using hoof boots on my horse, but am concerned they might rub. Could this be a problem? Lucy Nicholas from The Saddlery Shop advises... Once you have selected a boot for your horse based on its measurements, fit the boot as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Does the hoof fill the inside of the boot nicely without bulging or ‘gapping’? Check that the fastenings are not too tight. When the boot is on the hoof, you shouldn’t be able to twist it from side to side by any more than around five degrees (unless stated differently by the manufacturer), as this could indicate that the boot could be too big, or the wrong shape for the horse’s hoof. Rubbing will occur if the boot is too small – if this occurs, the owner should check their measurements again, and try the next size up to see if that fits better. The foot should sit comfortably on the inner sole of the boot, and should not crush the heel. One way to check the length of the hoof inside the boot is to put the sole of the foot flat on the outside of the boot sole. Rubbing is usually more common in horses with under-run heels, where the measurements for length have not been taken into consideration. Some hoof boots have special wraps or gaiters that act as ‘socks’ to help protect sensitive skin. A wide range of Hoof Boots and Hoof Boot accessories are available from The Saddlery Shop.

Training Aids for Lunging

By The Saddlery Shop's Lucy Nicholas... Lungeing is a method used to exercise a horse or to teach him something new without a rider on his back. It is also used as a replacement to riding; it lets you exercise your horse, allowing you to see his movements, which can lead to a better understanding of how your horse moves beneath you when you are in the saddle. Lungeing is often used before a horse is ridden – it’s a good way for your horse to learn human authority and allows him to adjust to being controlled and lets him become familiar with a bridle or cavesson! We have a range of items for sale to aid you with your lungeing, including the JHL Chambon for £12.99 and the Shires Lunging Aid for £39.99 - use our online search box to look for these items and others. Tips for lungeing your horse - 1.) Make sure you check that all you tack is suitable and not causing any discomfort. 2.) Try not to let your horse change direction whilst lungeing, without permission. You may need a helper to guide him from the outside. 3.) Body language is important - e.g. turning your body to make a wide, big outline when you want the horse to go forward and then turning side on, to slow him down. 4.) Stay behind your horse's shoulder to drive him forward. Visit Horse Deals for advice on training as well as to see a range of horses for sale.

What’s the difference is between a farrier’s ‘pasture trim’ and a barefoot trimmer’s ‘natural trim’?

As a retailer of horse boots for barefoot horses, many people ask us here at The Saddlery Shop what the difference is between a farrier’s ‘pasture trim’, and a barefoot trimmer’s ‘natural trim’. This can be contentious, as opinions differ. In summary, a pasture trim generally just removes excess length, and tidies chips. Not all farriers performing a pasture trim will ‘dress’ the hoof’s outer edge, eg. bevel with a mustang roll, which strengthens the hoof capsule and helps prevent cracks. A farrier’s pasture trim may also not deal with compacted (dead) sole, or major hoof imbalances, such as under-run heels. The natural trim a barefoot trimmer performs ensures the foot is properly balanced, flare is addressed, hoof wall trimmed to hard sole level, dead or compacted sole removed, and mustang roll applied. Barefoot practitioners also discuss diet and environment at each visit. The farrier’s view Mike Chawke is an RF(BngC), MF(IMFA), CE-F qualified farrier, currently based in Ireland. Mike believes there should be no difference between the two trims. “A farrier giving a so-called pasture trim should address all the relevant hoof balances, just the same as if the animal was being shod, with the exception of leaving a fraction more extended wall for wearing purposes, if the pasture is hard,” Mike explains. “I believe that only the flaky, non-essential equine sole should be removed when trimming, in most cases. Bevelling the bottom edge of the wall to prevent chipping of the bare foot should be normal farriery practise. “I’d like to add that in my opinion, any animal not requiring shoes should not be shod. Shoeing is necessary for the simple reason we wish to use these animal for purposes for which they were never intended i.e. regular enforced work on hard surfaces,” Mike added. Opinion does differ regarding trimming techniques, so seek recommendations from several hoofcare professionals before choosing one to trim your horse’s feet. Check out the range of hoofboots on our website by visiting www.thesaddleryshop.co.uk

Barefoot Hoof Care and the Trail Boot

If your horse is barefoot, it is important to be vigilant where his management is concerned in winter - this is because wet conditions can allow bacteria to thrive, leading to unhealthy feet. In addition, extensive stabling can cause problems if the horse is not on a well-draining bed. To maximise your horse’s welfare, maintain a clean stable environment, ask your farrier or trimmer to perform regular trims or checks, provide a natural, low sugar, high fibre diet, and provide the horse with as much natural movement as possible. If you are transitioning from shod to barefoot, hoof boots will allow you to continue riding on all surfaces during the transition; meanwhile, some barefooted horses may always need boots on rough, stony ground when ridden, especially if the owner’s circumstances don’t allow for optimum diet and environment. The EasyCare Trail is a popular hoof boot, and appeals to those that enjoy pleasure riding up to 25 miles. Priced from £57.99 - £69.99. Key features - • Sold in singles • Easy to apply – simple closure • Available in 11 sizes • Comfortable and lightweight • Drainage holes in sole Comfort pads are advised for use in any hoof boot, for the most natural and beneficial experience for your horse.) To quote RF(BngC), MF(IMFA), CE-F qualified farrier, Mike Chawke of Ireland’s Little Farm Stud: “Why not try leaving your animal in its natural state, and simply fit hoof boots when you want to train or exercise your barefoot horse?”

Equine Rugging Advice from The Saddlery Shop

Horses acclimatise gradually and naturally to colder and wetter weather conditions, however it is our intervention that includes clipping and grooming coat oils away that leads them to feel the cold. Some horses may not need rugging up, providing they have three key things - 1. Ad lib hay, as this forage acts as an internal heating system to provide warmth via digestion. 2. Turn out that encourages movement. 3. Suitable shelter, not just a hedge. However, if you do feel it necessary to rug, use the rug weight that you deem necessary for your horse’s breed, health status, including the animal’s age, and its environment. Choosing a size Rugs come in feet and inches, e.g. 5' 9" or 6’ 3". To check the size, using a tape measure, measure your horse from the centre of his chest, horizontally along his side, finishing at the point of his tail. If the measurement is between sizes, go up a size rather than down, to avoid rubbing. Advice • Provide ad lib hay in sheltered areas • Don’t rug too early in the year, the coat may not to develop enough, so you need to rug more • Rug your horse or pony ‘as and when’ you need to • Rug progressively - e.g. light, then medium, then heavy Rug weights • Lightweight -up to around 150g • Mediumweight - a filling of between150 - 250g. • Heavyweight rug - a filling of 250g-400g. Visit The Saddlery Shop’s rug pages for inspiration! Click here for further advice on horse care.