What’s a Pasture Trim?

As barefoot horse boot retailers, many people ask us here at The Saddlery Shop what the difference is between a farrier’s ‘pasture trim’, and a barefoot trimmer’s ‘natural trim’. This can be contentious, as opinions differ.

Most non-farrier hoofcare professionals would agree that a pasture trim tidies the hooves of a non-working horse at grass, while a natural (or performance) trim aims to produce hard-working hooves for ridden horses. A pasture trim generally just removes excess length, and tidies chips; in my experience, not all farriers performing a pasture trim will ‘dress’ the hoof’s outer edge, eg. bevel with a mustang roll, which strengthens the hoof capsule and helps prevent cracks. A natural trim, which could differ between individual practitioners, generally ensures the foot is properly balanced, flare is addressed, hoof wall is trimmed to hard sole level, and bevelling is applied. Barefoot practitioners also discuss diet and environment at each visit.

However, as I said, opinions do vary! Mike Chawke is an RF(BngC), MF(IMFA), CE-F qualified farrier, currently based in Ireland. Mike believes there should be no difference between the two trims. “A farrier giving a so-called pasture trim should address all the relevant hoof balances, just the same as if the animal was being shod, with the exception of leaving a fraction more extended wall for wearing purposes, if the pasture is hard. Bevelling the bottom edge of the wall to prevent chipping of the bare foot should be normal farriery practise,” he told us.

Opinion does differ regarding trimming techniques, so seek recommendations from several hoofcare professionals before choosing one to trim your horse’s feet.

Many barefooted horses will benefit from wearing hoof boots, especially through the transitionary phase after de-shoeing, and sometimes beyond, for example if extra shock absorption is required over challenging surfaces. Visit our hoofboot page at www.thesaddleryshop.co.uk for inspiration!

Tack Cleaning and Care.

Tack should always be kept clean and though typically we associate the winter months with being tough on our tack, warm weather can often dry out our leatherwork. Efficient and effective tack care is important all year round and keeping your tack clean will ensure your leather remains supple and flexible and prevent any mould developing.

When riding our aim is for our horses to be as comfortable as possible and keeping your tack will make sure that our horses are not rubbed or chaffed by their leatherwork.

Leather products such as saddles, bridles, martingales and breastplates can be expensive, so keeping them clean and stored correctly helping them to last longer is important.

Cleaning

·         All leather tack should be wiped down after every use and it is important to also clean any unused tack at least once a month.

·         Using saddle soap is a good way of cleaning leather; it will help put the oils back and keep the tack moisturised. If you are wiping down your tack after every use, saddle soap should generally be used on a weekly basis.

·         As well as using saddle soap it is crucial to condition your tack by oiling or using a rich leather balsam every couple of weeks.

5 Top Tips for Tack Care

1.) Remember to always dry your tack well after using it during wet weather as moisture can damage leather.

2.) Cover your tack to keep the dust off, with  prevent mould growth and to prevent any other scratches from occurring. Dust can collect in the smallest of cracks so wiping your saddle is important. Dust is microscopically sharp and can easily degrade leather.

3.) Keep leatherwear away from direct sunlight. Try to store your tack in a dark area. Try to keep your light coloured leather products away from severe weathers such as heavy rain or direct sunlight. All leather will eventually change colour, but this will help to slow the process.

4.) Try to keep the air moving in your tack room during the summer months as stagnant air can attract mould growth. Using a fan in your tack room can help.

5.) Try to keep your tack off the ground. Vermin can chew and ultimately destroy leather tack and equipment.

A wide range of tack and equipment including bridles, head collars, breastplates and much more is available from The Saddlery Shop visit the website today at www.thesaddleryshop.co.uk/

And to see a range of articles, videos and reviews concerning equestrian and countryside matters visit www.horseandcountryside.com

Coping with Spring and Summer Flies and Insects!

Flies are ever-present pests in the spring and summer months, attacking horses and ponies in several different ways; biting flies can pierce the horse’s skin and feed on its blood, while what we may term ‘nuisance flies’ simply lay secretions in and around the horse’s eye, mouth, nose and other sensitive spots, causing discomfort. Some horses suffer from an allergic reaction, which can result from any fly bite, and of course all the presence of landing flies cause annoyance and irritation to our equines.

Types of Flies

• Horseflies (Tabinidae) are most active on warm days, especially around woodlands. Favourite feeding sites include the horse’s underside, legs, neck and withers.
• Black flies (Simuliidae) are small in size and breed in rapidly moving water. High-risk times are dawn and dusk during spring and early summer, when stabling may be helpful. These flies commonly feed around the face.
• Midges (Culicoides) hover in swarms at dawn and dusk. Eggs are laid in standing water, so avoid stagnant areas of water if possible, at your yard or stabling facility. Different species of midges feed at different sites on the horse. Classically, mane and tail hairs are broken or rubbed away.
• Stable flies lay eggs in moist, rotting vegetation – typically, hay or silage that is contaminated with urine, water or manure – so are associated with poor hygiene. They feed on horses’ legs and abdomens.
• Other biters include mosquitoes, bees and wasps – these produce uncomfortable bites, as well as causing alarm to horses.

How to Treat Fly Bites

• For a one-off bite, apply an ice pack or bathe with cool, salt water. 
• For multiple fly bites, a mild horse shampoo can help to remove irritating scurf or bacteria, and cool the inflamed skin. 
• As they are alkaline, wasp stings should be bathed with a dilute acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Bee stings, however, are acidic and should be bathed with bicarbonate of soda.
• Try to prevent the horse making the affected area worse by rubbing. A soothing topical cream may help or an antiseptic cream for minor scratches and abrasions that includes vitamins that help soften and nourish the skin.

Preventative Measures to Avoid Fly Bites

• Use a physical barrier, such as fly mask or fly rug. A wide range from brands such as Horseware, Weatherbeeta and Shires to name but a few! 
• Use a fan in the stable, to blow away flies.
• Apply a long-lasting fly spray such as NAF Off Extra currently on offer from The Saddlery Shop for just £11.99 with a FREE citronella wristband for horse owners. 
• Keep horses stabled when the flies are bad.
• Spray clean stables with a disinfectant, to maintain a clean environment. 
• Try to eliminate puddles and ponds of still water where midges might breed.

Bit by Bit by Lucy Nicholas

The eventing season is in full swing now, so below, I showcase some of my favourite bits for riding across country-

My favourite XC bits

Ringed Continental This bit – also known as the Dutch Gag or Bubble Gag – is available with three or four cheek rings, in most of the commonly seen mouthpieces, and in several materials. It us often chosen by riders of horses that can be heavy in the hand.

A Ringed Continental bit is best described as a cross between a traditional gag and a Pelham.
It emulates the effect of draw reins. (Below).

 

Waterford 
The Waterford is a type of mouthpiece consisting of a series of balls across the main part of the bit, designed to encourage the horse to ‘mouth’ the bit and encourage better perception of the rider’s aids. Because the mouthpiece of the Waterford becomes uncomfortable when a horse pulls, the animal will not usually lean on it, or take a strong hold. It is recommended by many riders whose horses are sensitive, yet strong, and hang on the bit. (Below).



Three Ringed Continental Waterford 
There is a combination of the above two bit types called the three Ring Continental Waterford which is a popular bit for XC riding, and also team chasing and hunting, as it offers a good level of control. However the rider should never ‘see saw’ the hands when using a Waterford bit! The mouthpiece of the Waterford lays across the horse’s tongue, creating an even pressure. This combination creates a very nice bit, providing the rider has sympathetic hands! (Below).

 

Jointed Kimblewick 
The Kimblewick is popular with riders of ponies – especially those that lean on a straight bar mouthpiece. Kimblewicks are similar to Pelham bits in their action with the use of a curb, but are milder in their action, due to the lack of shank; this gives far less leverage, and can make them a good bit for children to use, as they also have the added advantage of being able to be ridden with just one pair of reins. The jointed mouthpiece can lessen the action of the curb, and also help to raise the horse’s head with bar and palate pressure in the mouth. (Below).


Remember – dental checks by an equine dental technician or vet are recommended at least once a year. You can Email me with your bitting queries at advice@thesaddleryshop.co.uk Searching for a horse? Visit the classified ads site http://www.horsequest.co.uk to see a range of horses for sale.